Insiders' Fashion: Tale Of A Garment, The History Of The Kaftan

Left: Cropped black kaftan by Orisha. Right: Orange Kaftan by Talking Body

By Isabel Castrejón Pascacio

Flowing, regal and effortlessly chic, the kaftan has endured centuries, continents, and cultural shifts to remain one of fashion’s most versatile garments. In 2025, it's not just a beach cover-up or a bohemian staple; the kaftan is a canvas for personal expression, global heritage, and timeless elegance.

The kaftan’s origins date back over 2,000 years to Mesopotamia, where it was worn by both men and women. Originally a long tunic with sleeves, the garment was practical for hot climates and adaptable for different classes and professions. The word kaftan means robe and it comes from Persian, and its early iterations were favored by nobility and royalty, due to their long flowing cuts, intricate patterns, and luxurious fabrics. The kaftan served not only as clothing but also as a marker of rank and status.

One of the most richly documented historical uses of the kaftan comes from the Ottoman Empire (14th–20th century), where it became a formal garment worn by sultans and court officials. These kaftans were made from opulent silks, velvets, and brocades. They also were embroidered with gold thread and adorned with patterns indicating political and social rank and custom-made in the Imperial Palace workshops, often gifted as symbols of honor.

The kaftan spread widely across North Africa, where it took on local variations. In Morocco, it became a staple of women’s formal wear, particularly during weddings and religious celebrations. Moroccan kaftans are often two-piece ensembles (kaftan + belt), richly decorated with embroidery, beads, and lace and passed down through generations as heirlooms.

In Algeria, Tunisia, and the Levant, similar long garments (like the djellaba or abaya) carried their own cultural variations, further proving the garment’s adaptability and widespread appeal. In West Africa, particularly in Nigeria and Senegal, a similar style of flowing robe, often called a boubou, emerged. Though not always linguistically referred to as a kaftan, the aesthetic and function were similar: Made from vibrant, colorful fabrics, worn by both men and women for formal and everyday wear and they signified status, heritage, and celebration. The cross-cultural parallels are striking, showing that long, loose-fitting robes became the favored form across many regions because of both climate and symbolism.

In the mid-20th century, the kaftan broke into Western fashion consciousness. The 1960s and '70s were a defining moment: Yves Saint Laurent, inspired by his Algerian roots, famously included kaftans in his collections, turning them into haute couture. Elizabeth Taylor wore kaftans as glamorous loungewear and evening attire, helping to popularize the style in Hollywood. The counterculture and bohemian movements embraced the kaftan as a symbol of exoticism, freedom, and anti-conformity. The kaftan became synonymous with jet-set luxury, worn by the wealthy at seaside villas and by rebels on the streets.

Fast-forward to 2025, and the kaftan continues to be celebrated for its comfort, elegance, and cultural richness. With growing interest in modest fashion, sustainability, and slow style, it’s being re-embraced not just for aesthetics, but for its practicality and inclusivity.

The kaftan stands at the intersection of tradition and reinvention. It’s worn as cultural dress for weddings, religious ceremonies, and national holidays. Also, as resort wear, chic, light, and flowing for beach vacations and summer escapes. It can be a fashion statement from high-end runways to sustainable fashion brands. And lastly, it's wildly popular in inclusive clothing, celebrated for its comfort, modesty, and suitability across sizes and genders.

Designers like our beloved Raul del Castillo and Christopher Fallon are modernizing it with: asymmetrical cuts and gender-fluid styling. Local designer Gay Estes from the brand Orisha is making the kaftan a layering piece for streetwear and using recycled fabrics for sustainable appeal. Querétaro based designer Bukola Biola from the brand Talking Body is using bold digital prints that still appeal to her heritage. The kaftan is also re-emerging as a political and cultural statement. Many wear it today not only for style but to reclaim heritage, resist cultural erasure, and celebrate diasporic identities.

From Persian palaces to TikTok closets, from Ottoman courts to Cannes carpets, the kaftan’s journey is far from over. It represents history, artistry, and adaptability, and it still speaks volumes today. Whether you wear one to honor your roots, make a fashion statement, or just stay cool and comfortable, the kaftan invites us to dress boldly, beautifully, and with meaning.

Isabel is an art history professor at the Universidad Nacional Autonoma de México as well as the founder of WearSanMiguel.com, and organizes ‘Fashion Parade’, the largest yearly fashion show in San Miguel.