Who Is Who On Our Streets: Stubborn As A Mule, Lazy As A Cat

By Natalie Taylor

The first time I met Pepe, he was walking with Armando along Real del Conde, and he stubbornly pushed forward, refusing to stop for me. When I tried to get a time for an interview the next morning at ten, Armando informed me that Pepe sleeps in and would not be available until about noon. We met in the empty lot across from the Mision Hotel, and I immediately offered Pepe a carrot to make friends. He took it eagerly from my hand and chomped down noisily with great pleasure. It was gratifying to discover that I had hit on his favorite treat, surpassing an apple or even a cube of sugar.

Pepe is the famous tequila donkey—el burro tequilero, who used to be an essential part of the callejoneada—the wedding party procession after the ceremony through the streets of San Miguel. His owner, Armando Rivera, says these are no longer allowed. They were stopped during the Covid lockdown and never resumed.

A burro carrying tequila is a long-standing tradition in many communities in México. It is most often associated with weddings, where the celebrants hire someone with a burro to carry tequila or mezcal, along with fixings such as limes and salt in baskets strapped to the burro’s sides. The guests were given shot glasses, and as the wedding party moved through the streets, the glasses were filled and refilled. It was a wonderful, festive parade with passersby frequently joining in a fun, interactive atmosphere. That tradition is no longer permitted on the streets of San Miguel; these days it only happens in Parque Juárez where Armando gets hired for a walkabout with his burro, Pepe.

Musicians accompany them, either mariachis or a different band. However, because it is a public space, no tequila can be served. But he can, of course, be hired for events in private locations, and in those cases there are no res - trictions on alcohol!

Pepe is the second-generation tequila burro; the first was Filemón, who died of old age a few years ago, leaving his son Filemón Jr., who is now three years old. He is too young yet to be doing the work, so the responsibility is all on Pepe’s shoulders—or back, to be more accurate.

I asked why Pepe was so antsy the first time I saw him on the street, and reluctant to stop.

Armando explained that burros are working animals and they like to be moving all the time; they get anxious if they are made to stand too long. Unlike a horse, which has no problem standing still (Armando says they simply doze off), a burro wants to keep going.

As we were chatting, Armando and his wife Carolina, were getting Pepe ready for his stint in Parque Juárez. We were in the large open field where Pepe spends his days amid lush grasses that are at their tastiest after the rains. During the dry season, they have to buy food for him—mostly oats and sometimes corn. They adorned him with flowers and ribbons and were in the process of putting on two pant legs on his front legs. I thought it was cute, but found out that there was a reason for the cover—the swarming flies! What about his back legs? I asked. “That is no problem,” said Armando. “He kills them with swipes of his tail.”

When I first saw Pepe, he had a sombrero, but Armando says he doesn’t like wearing it, so he tries not to put it on him too often. Asking whether Pepe or Filemón Jr. would be bred elicited a lengthy response, providing more information than I had anticipated.

Yes, eventually they plan on breeding Pepe, but the process can be costly, and it means taking care of another burro. As far as Filemón Jr., he is a bit too young yet.

And, Armando said, they’ve discovered he is a manadero. What is that? He likes mares more than donkeys, so he’d father a mule! And how do they know he’s a manadero?

“A herd of mares grazes nearby and he’s after them all the time…” Armando replied.

Will there be a tequila mule in San Miguel in the future? Only time will tell.

If you are interested in having Armando and Pepe at an event, you may get in touch with them (through Armando) at 415 100 5901 or on Instagram:@burritofilemonsma